Rider: Jordan Daley
Photo: Henry Cobb

EPIC DAY AT GULMARG, PT. TWO

AVALANCHE AT GULMARG

GULMARG MOUNTAIN SPORTS

EPIC DAY AT GULMARG, PT. ONE

SHAUN KRATZER (1976-2007)

This post is dedicated to the friends and family of Shaun Kratzer, a man lost in an avalanche two years ago today, at Gulmarg. An account of this sad event by someone who was there can be found at The Avy in Gulmarg. There is also a discussion of this particular avalanche with photographs of the crown and deposition located at this forum thread at Teton Gravity Research. (The area of that slide is now known as Shaggy's Face). An additional account of this tragedy can be read where it was originally reported at News.com.au (Caution: This article is accompanied by a disturbing photograph of the victim).

The snowfall at Gulmarg is generous, increasing the danger of avalanche at the resort, and especially in the adjacent bowls, which are unpatrolled, but heavily skied. Fortunately, the resort has retained the services of experienced patrollers and avalanche experts, and has gained permission to use explosives to trigger pre-emptive slides to control the danger to skiers.

Please consult the following avalanche resources before venturing into the backcountry, and if you intend to visit Gulmarg the patrollers firmly ask that one come equipped with a transceiver, a probe, a shovel, and the knowledge to properly use them all.
Photo credit: Corey Putkunz

AVALANCHE RESOURCES:
The Avalanche Center
The Avalanche Encyclopedia
Surviving the Backcountry - Tahoe World.
WestWide Avalanche Network

MAN UPSETS ENTIRE VALLEY

TEXT HERE

Swedish Skier Beaten in Gulmarg on Holy Words - KO, 7 February 2009.
Verse on ski angers Valley - Telegraph, 7 February 2009.
Foreigner detained for using slider with Quranic verses - Indopia, 7 February 2009.

MOHANDAS KARAMCHAND GANDHI (1869-1948)

Mahatma Gandhi, Father of the Nation of India. Assassinated 61 years ago today.

"As soon as we lose the moral basis, we cease to be religious. There is no such thing as religion over-riding morality. Man, for instance, cannot be untruthful, cruel or incontinent and claim to have God on his side."
"What difference does it make to the dead, the orphans, and the homeless, whether the mad destruction is wrought under the name of totalitarianism or the holy name of liberty and democracy?"
"There are many causes that I am prepared to die for but no causes that I am prepared to kill for."
"An eye for an eye makes the whole world blind." - MKG

Gandhi's Ashes Scattered At Sea - BBC, 30 January 2008.
Sad, but Hindu nationalists have Ambivalent Views Over Gandhi Killer - BBC, 30 January 2008.
Photo credit: MHIP

FIRE IN THE BED

PEACEFUL REPUBLIC DAY IN KASHMIR

Srinagar and the surrounding areas of Kashmir remained peaceful and calm during the annual observation of Republic Day, 26 January 2009. The Kashmir Valley area did not experience the violence that has marred the national holiday in previous years.

The run-up to Republic Day is generally marked by increasing tensions in Srinagar as government forces step up planned search and surveillance operations. Furthermore, the observation of a holiday boycott, known as "Black Day" in Srinagar, often results in a widespread shutdown of transportation and retail services, which only adds to the woes of city-dwellers.
Photo credit: Kashmir Media Service

BARACK OBAMA INAUGURATED

Barack Obama is inaugurated and the world rejoices. Here at Gulmarg no one is disappointed to see Mr. Bush leave office.

OBAMA'S KASHMIR CONUNDRUM

Obama's Kashmir conundrum - BBC, 21 January 2009.

CRAIG KELLY (1966-2003)

Craig Kelly, a legend in the winter sports industry, champion freestyler, pioneer freerider, and inspiration to a generation of snowboarders, lost in an avalanche six years ago today. R.I.P.

MARTIN LUTHER KING, JR. (1929-1968)

Our world is rife with division and struggle, intolerance, misunderstanding and hatred, war and oppression. Our civilization depends on the courage of men and women resisting these tyrannies to lead mankind into a future of cooperation and peace.

Although Martin Luther King Jr., is mainly identified with the civil rights movement in the US his message of peace is universal, and it speaks to people of all nations. That message is relevant to the current struggle in Kashmir; his dedication to peace everywhere is the reason Dr. King is a hero.

"Have we not come to such an impasse in the modern world that we must love our enemies - or else? The chain reaction of evil - hate begetting hate, wars producing more wars - must be broken, or else we shall be plunged into the dark abyss of annihilation."
"Peace is not merely a distant goal that we seek, but a means by which we arrive at that goal."
"We must learn to live together as brothers or perish together as fools."
"Injustice anywhere is a threat to justice everywhere." - MLK

Photo credit: Associated Press

CHILAI KALAN WAKES UP

Chilai Kalan wakes up; Snow, rains cut off Kashmir - RK, 18 January 2009.

From the Rising Kashmir article: The 296-kms long Srinagar-Jammu highway, the only road link connecting Kashmir with rest of the world was closed for vehicular traffic on Sunday after heavy snowfall and rains lashed the State. The army personnel in the upper reaches have been warned about possible snow avalanches and directed to take the precautionary measures.

Heavy to moderate snowfall was experienced in almost all the upper reaches and high altitudes of the Valley.

The meadow valley of Gulmarg received 3 feet of snow, Afarwat and Kangduri 4 ft, Tangmarg and Babareshi 1.5 ft, Pahalgam 1 ft, Sadhna top 4 ft and Kargil 1-2 ft in the fresh snowfall. The plain areas of the Valley also received light snowfall, much to the delight of the city residents. Trees, parks, and fields were draped in white cover.

“It was very delightful to watch the snowfall,” said a city resident Mujtaba Ahmad. (Emphasis added)

AVALANCHE AWARENESS, PT. ONE: GULMARG

Brian Newman, leader of the Snow Safety team for Gulmarg 07/08, with Nanga Parbat in the background (photo right).

Mr. Newman is a no-nonsense individual who takes his job very seriously, and each Tuesday night he and his Snow Safety team hosted a (spellbinding) presentation on the subject of avalanche danger at the Pine Palace. This was always a very well attended, SRO event that never failed to make a sobering impression on the gathered crowd.

Brian is careful to stress that this presentation in no way substituted for actual avalanche training, and in doing so, most definitely motivated many in attendance to seek out that training. (The Snow Safety team established a permanent, simulated buried victim and transceiver as a practice facility on the grounds of the Pine Palace).

Lest you remain unimpressed with the inherent danger of a big mountain environment I invite you to read this arresting submission by Ptor - the 2007 Kashmir Winter Report.
Photo credit: John Carolin
Image courtesy of Brian Newman

CIB RAIDS THE GLOBAL

SUMMIT OF AFFARWAT

USDOS: INDIA TRAVEL ALERT

Travel Alert issued by the US Department of State, 9 January 2009:

The Department of State warns U.S. citizens that there is a high threat of terrorism throughout India, and advises U.S. citizens traveling to or already in India to maintain a high level of vigilance and to take appropriate steps to increase their security awareness, especially during the end-of-year holidays until India’s Republic Day, January 26. This Travel Alert expires on January 31, 2009 and replaces that issued on December 19 to provide updated information regarding the security situation. (Emphasis added)

LETTING LOOSE IN GULMARG

DAY TRIP TO SRINAGAR

KASHMIR CM SWORN IN

Kashmir chief minister sworn in - AJ, 7 January 2009.

DAY ONE, PHASE TWO & LIGHTS OUT

DEL-SXR

HUGE SNOWFALL AT GULMARG

Kashmir Valley receives snowfall - HN, 4 January 2009.

From the Hindu:
Srinagar (PTI): High altitudes of the Kashmir Valley received another spell of moderate to heavy snowfall, while the plains, including capital Srinagar, experienced light snowfall in the wee hours on Sunday...

The sources said Ski resort of Gulmarg, 52 kms from here, received fresh four to five feet of snow, while it was heavy in the upper reaches including Khilanmarg and Apperwath.

Several feet of snow had already covered the slopes of Gulmarg last month, making it fit for hosting winter sports activities, the sources said. (Emphasis added)

PAHAR GANJ, DELHI, PT. THREE

Day One of 2009 starts out at 500 mph, 30000 feet above Greenland and its unpronounceable landmarks, and ends stalled in a rogue taxi behind a dusty elephant in India.



Picking up where I left off last April: I'm back in the thick of it, the Central Bazaar of Pahar Ganj - the tourist ghetto Delhi/New Delhi. Posts from Delhi last year are gathered HERE.












Photo credit: Jay Farbman

HAPPY NEW YEAR

GULMARG: THE INSPIRATION

I cannot recall how I first heard of a ski resort in India but it was described to me as an expanse larger than Verbier with vertical footage similar to Whistler, serviced by one six-person gondola. Many hours after that were spent Googling into the night to learn more about Gulmarg. "Ne Pofa, A short ski trip around the world" from M.dub is a beautiful video featuring the resort in the second half. It alone was enough to convince me to drop it all last year and go ASAP. Now I'm back for the second round.

Trip reports provide the grittier details about a destination, so browsing the travel forums has become mandatory before any adventure. The chestnuts in all of the internet jibber-jabber are these submissions from Matt Roon, whose excellent trip reports are hosted at TGR:
TR: Gulmarg 2008 (1/3)
TR: Gulmarg 2008 (2/3)
TR: Gulmarg 2008 (3/3)

KASHMIR: STATE ELECTIONS

Evidently, the Indian Army in Kashmir is not tolerating any protest activity associated with the state elections. If Americans had to run a gauntlet like this to post a ballot, I don't think democracy would last very long in America. Most of our bloated and apathetic citizens are not cut out for this type of exercise.
Photo credit: Fayaz Kabli/Reuters



No clear winner from Indian Kashmir vote - Reuters, 28 December 2008.
Polls close in Indian Kashmir vote - AJ, 26 December 2008.
Clashes mark final Kashmir poll - BBC, 24 December 2008.
Srinagar notebook: Election blues - BBC, 23 December 2008.
Clashes mar Indian Kashmir voting - AJ, 13 December 2008.
Kashmiris at polls despite boycott call - Reuters, 7 December 2008.
Protesters shot in Indian-Kashmir - AJ, 22 November 2008.
Protests fade as Kashmir vote begins - BBC, 17 November 2008.
Voting begins in Indian Kashmir - AJ, 17 November 2008.
Indian Kashmir prepares for election - IHT, 14 November 2008.
Terrorism grows as Indian election nears - IHT, 24 September 2008.

BENAZIR BHUTTO (1953-2007)

Today is the first anniversary of Benazir Bhutto's death by assassination in Rawalpindi. Condolences to all those mourning this fallen leader, taken far too early from life.

Pakistan mourners honour Bhutto - BBC, 27 December 2008.
Obituary: Benazir Bhutto - BBC, 27 December 2007.
Bhutto: Who Ordered Her Killing? - BBC, 28 December 2007.
Pakistan Blames Qaeda Link - IHT, 28 December 2007.
CIA Names Bhutto's Killers - BBC, 18 January 2008.
Questions & Answers - BBC, 8 February 2008.
Photo credit: BBC

INDO-PAK TENSIONS ON THE RISE

From the AP article:

Pakistan began moving thousands of troops from the Afghan border toward India, officials and witnesses said Friday, raising tensions between the nuclear-armed neighbors and possibly undermining the U.S.-backed campaign against al-Qaida and the Taliban.

Pakistan moves troops to Indian border - AP, 26 December 2008.
India PM meets forces, Pakistan moves troops - Reuters, 26 December 2008.
Troop changes after India tension - BBC, 26 December 2008.
Pakistan warns India against attack - IHT, 26 December 2008.
Pakistan cancels military leave - AJ, 26 December 2008.
India warns citizens: Unsafe to travel to Pakistan - Reuters, 26 December 2008.
Pakistan military on 'high alert' - AJ, 22 December 2008.
India wants action, not "war hysteria" - Reuters, 22 December 2008.
Image credit: Steve Breen

BRIGHT SPOT FOR KASHMIR

"The number of militant attacks fell 40 percent from 2007-2008, reaching 709 this year from roughly 1,100 last year, Kuldeep Khoda, a senior police official, said in a statement." (Emphasis added)

Violence in Kashmir lowest in 20 years - IHT, 26 December 2008.
Photo credit: Fayaz Kabli/Reuters

HAPPY HOLIDAYS

Happy Holidays to one and all:

PEACE & LOVE
PEACE & LOVE
PEACE & LOVE

POLICE ARREST MILITANTS IN JAMMU

Police foil attack in Indian Kashmir - IHT, 23 December 2008.
India arrests 3 suspects in Kashmir - IHT, 23 December 2008.

FBI LINKS PAKISTAN TO TERRORISM

Mumbai attack: US backs Indian proof of Pak hand - TOI, 23 December 2008.
VIDEO: US backs proof of Pak hand - TOI, 23 December 2008.

USDOS: INDIA TRAVEL ALERT

Travel Alert issued by the US Department of State, 19 December 2008:

The Department of State warns U.S. citizens that there is a high threat of terrorism throughout India, and advises U.S. citizens traveling to or already in India to maintain a high level of vigilance and to take appropriate steps to increase their security awareness, especially during the end-of-year holidays until India’s Republic Day, January 26. This Travel Alert expires on January 31, 2009 and replaces that issued on December 4 to provide updated information regarding the security situation.

The November 26 terrorist attack in Mumbai was carried out at venues frequented by Americans. That attack killed 170 persons (including six Americans and 16 other non-Indians) and injured 300. Future attacks may also target public places frequented by Westerners, including in large cities and tourist areas. India press reports that the State government in Goa has warned against beach parties and large gatherings on beaches and “open spaces” between December 23 and January 5.

The U.S. Mission is concerned that increased political tension between Pakistan and India may further complicate travel in areas near their already-sensitive border.

For the latest security information, Americans traveling abroad should regularly monitor the Department's Internet web site at http://travel.state.gov where the current Worldwide Caution, Travel Warnings, and Travel Alerts can be found. Up-to-date information on security can also be obtained by calling 1-888-407-4747 toll free in the United States and Canada or, for callers outside the United States and Canada, a regular toll line at 1-202-501-4444. These numbers are available from 8:00 a.m. to 8:00 p.m. Eastern Time, Monday through Friday (except U.S. federal holidays). The U.S. Embassy in New Delhi is located at Shanti Path, Chanakya Puri 110021; telephone +91-11-2419-8000; fax +91-11-2419-8407. The Embassy's Internet home page address is http://newdelhi.usembassy.gov.
Image credit: Steve Breen

WINTER SOLSTICE

Today is winter solstice, the shortest daylight/longest night of the year.

US SURGE IN AFGHANISTAN

Simply amazing that this story went virtually unnoticed in the US media, especially that it is extremely topical, and is a highly significant movement of troops. Our sympathies go out to all the servicemen and women whose fate it is to be sent to this far-off land in which NO foreign power has ever successfully occupied.

US to bolster force in Afghanistan - AJ, 21 December 2008.
30,000 US troops to go to Afghanistan - TO, 11 December 2008.

MILITANTS DIE IN KASHMIR BATTLE

'Militants die' in Kashmir battle - BBC, 19 December 2008.

MAN SURVIVES AVALANCHE

Avalanches are Back: Man survives slide in the Basin; Woman dies at Snowbird - PR, 16 December 2008.

From the article in the Park Record:
Matt Roon and his twin brother Wesley "are avid skiers," said Parkite Chris Roon, the boys' father. His passion for skiing took Matt Roon last year to the Himalayas in Kashmir for six weeks of big-mountain skiing. "Both kids have been through [avalanche] training and they absolutely adore the backcountry," Chris Roon said.

The father praised ski patrollers at The Canyons for responding so quickly. Roon did not lose consciousness and his head was not submerged under snow. "His friends dug him out and carried him out within two hours," Chris Roon said. "He was not without equipment, without training or without friends who knew what they were doing."

Add your well-wishes for Matt Roon's full recovery at this thread at the TGR Forum > Ski/Snowboard > Mc_Roon needs vibes.

Matt (right, in better days) is the author of these excellent trip reports about his six weeks at Gulmarg in 2008, highly recommended reading:

TR: Gulmarg 2008 (1/3)
TR: Gulmarg 2008 (2/3)
TR: Gulmarg 2008 (3/3)

GULMARG MAP: KASHMIR HOT SPOTS

A brief guide to conflict locations in the state of Jammu & Kashmir, with links to news sources.


View Larger Map

GULMARG MAP: GULMARG, SXR, & DEL

Use the controls to tool around this custom map of Gulmarg, Kashmir, India. Highlighted features include hotels, restaurants, and other services, in addition to the Gulmarg Gondola and prominent bowls in the skiing domain. Approaches to Gulmarg from Srinagar and Delhi are also noted.


View Larger Map

GULMARG: STEVE FISHER TWSB INTERVIEWS

The embed code automatically launches the video (and audio) which I find annoying, otherwise the video would be presented here for your convenience. If you know how to re-write the code to kill the auto-start, please contact. Don't forget to come back after surfing the links!

From Transworld Snowboarding:
Tempting Fate In The Himalayan Outback-Episode 1
Tempting Fate In The Himalayan Outback-Episode 2
Photo: Steve Fisher

GULMARG VIDEO - SCOTT SNOW EXPEDITION

The Scott Snow Expedition Kashmir -
Released on YouTube in June '08, I'm bumping this for stoke!

PAKISTAN CLAIMS AIRSPACE VIOLATION

India 'entered Pakistan airspace' - BBC, 14 December 2008.

FIVE FEET OF SNOW BURIES GULMARG

Heavy snowfall in valley cuts off border areas - ZN, 11 December 2008.
Photo credit: Sam Smith

THE MUMBAI TRAGEDY: REPORTS

India: Pak shifting blame over Mumbai - Reuters, 22 December 2008.
Pakistan bans 'Mumbai-linked' group - BBC, 12 December 2008.
India announces security revamp - AJ, 11 December 2008.
India police 'name Mumbai gunmen' - BBC, 9 December 2008.
Pakistan's surprise raid on Lashkar - BBC, 8 December 2008.
India: Not equal to counterterrorism task - IHT, 4 December 2008.
Pressure builds on Pak to rein in militants - IHT, 4 December 2008.
US presses Pakistan over Mumbai - BBC, 3 December 2008.
Tension could harm border fight: UK - Reuters, 2 December 2008.
India demands Pakistan extraditions - AJ, 2 December 2008.
Tensions mount between India & Pakistan - IHT, 2 December 2008.
India makes protest to Pakistan - BBC, 1 December 2008.
Mumbai attacks hit tourist arrivals - Reuters, 1 December 2008.
ANALYSIS: Mumbai attacks open Pandora's box for U.S. - Reuters.
ANALYSIS: A credible counterterror strategy needed - Reuters.

THE MUMBAI TRAGEDY

Condolences to the lives lost, the families, & the friends left to mourn.

From The Daily Show - "John Oliver explains that when you're a bankrupt ideology pursuing a bankrupt strategy, the only move you've got is the dick one".

The Daily Show With Jon StewartM - Th 11p / 10c

Mumbai Tragedy

Barack Obama Interview
John McCain Interview

Sarah Palin Video
Funny Election Video

IN-DEPTH: What did Kashmir have to do with the Mumbai attacks? - Time, 7 December 2008.

FIRST SNOW COVERS GULMARG, BLOCKS TANGMARG ROAD

Kashmir Valley receives its first snowfall - Hindu, 13 November 2008.
Daylong snowfall in Gulmarg hill station - STN, 13 November 2008.

Three feet of snowfall reported at Gulmarg from this most recent storm.
UPDATE: First Snowfall in Srinagar Disrupts Life - NB, 14 November 2008.

KASHMIR PROTESTS "OCCUPATION"

Kashmir Shuts Down on Anniversary - KO, 27 October 2008.
India deploys to halt Kashmir protests - Reuters, 27 October 2008.

"The Kashmir Coordination Committee (KCC), spearheading the ongoing agitation against New Delhi’s rule, has called for strike to protest against the landing of Indian troops in Srinagar on this day in 1947. " (Emphasis added)

BOYCOTT OF STATE ELECTIONS URGED

Kashmiris protest after leader held - AJ, 23 October 2008.

"Residents are demanding the release of Yasin Malik, arrested overnight after organising a rally urging people to boycott forthcoming elections...Multi-stage state elections are due to start on November 17 in Kashmir, where the past two months have witnessed some of the biggest anti-India protests since a separatist revolt against New Delhi's rule broke out in 1989."

INDIA LAUNCHES FIRST MOON MISSION

India launches first Moon mission - BBC, 22 October 2008.

KASHMIR LINK RE-OPENS AFTER 60 YEARS

60-Year-Hiatus Broken, Goods Cross LOC - KO, 21 October 2008.
India & Pakistan open Kashmir trade link - IHT, 21 October 2008.
Apples, onions cross frontier in Kashmir - Reuters, 21 October 2008.
Kashmir rivals reopen trade route - BBC, 21 October 2008.

INDIA & PAKISTAN AGREE TO KASHMIR TRADE ROUTE

Cross LOC Traders Overcome Hurdles- KO, 16 October 2008.
Uri-M’abad Route to be Ready by Oct 15 - KO, 23 September 2008.
India, Pak agree to Kashmir route - Reuters, 22 September 2008.

An agreement between India and Pakistan toward a more permanent, overland trade route in Kashmir, the roadway linking Uri (IN) and Muzaffarbad (PAK), took a positive step in September, despite increasing tensions in the region, and between the two nations. The future of this link, vital to the small business traders of Jammu & Kashmir state, is largely out of their own hands. Cross-border trade is threatened by three looming issues:
1. India's introduction of troops to Afghanistan, on Pakistan's Western Front.
2. India's construction of dams on rivers that flow into Pakistan from its Eastern Front.
3. Continued, and/or increasing instability in Pakistan.

GULMARG, KASHMIR: POWDER DESTINATION

"An informative and entertaining slide show by Brian Newman, snow safety officer contracted by the Kashmiri government to westernize Gulmarg in 2007. Join Brian for amazing ski photos from his adventures in the region of Kashmir. If you are thinking about a trip to Gulmarg, get the guidance to make the most of your adventure. Show starts at 8:00 PM." More information.

One likely topic of this presentation will be a discussion of avalanche danger and proper preparation. Find photographs of avalanche path and debris at Gulmarg here and there. More about Brian Newman, and avy danger at Gulmarg at these posts.

Highly recommended - This video from Rocky Mountain Sherpas:

KASHMIR DEBUTS RAILWAY SERVICE

Kashmir's first train flagged off - AJ, 11 October 2008.
Kashmir set for its first train service - BBC, 10 October 2008.

OUR SECRET WAR IN PAKISTAN

Our secret war in Pakistan - MSNBC, 7 October 2008.
BACKSTORY: South Asia Awaits Another Secret War - TO, 19 July 2008.

13 REBELS KILLED IN KASHMIR

Indian Army: 13 rebels killed in Kashmir - IHT, 3 October 2008.

US MISSILE KILLS SIX IN PAKISTAN

'US missile' hits Pakistan village - AJ, 1 October 2008.
US drone 'kills six' in Pakistan - BBC, 1 October 2008.
6 killed in missile strike in Pakistan - IHT, 1 October 2008.

KASHMIR CELEBRATES EID-UL-FITR

Kashmir celebrates Eid-ul-Fitr today - KO, 30 September 2008.

I had to look it up. Thank you Wikipedia: Eid-ul-Fitr.

Photo property of Kashmir Observer