I cannot recall how I first heard of a ski resort in India but it was described to me as an expanse larger than Verbier with vertical footage similar to Whistler, serviced by one six-person gondola. Many hours after that were spent Googling into the night to learn more about Gulmarg. "Ne Pofa, A short ski trip around the world" from M.dub is a beautiful video featuring the resort in the second half. It alone was enough to convince me to drop it all last year and go ASAP. Now I'm back for the second round.
Trip reports provide the grittier details about a destination, so browsing the travel forums has become mandatory before any adventure. The chestnuts in all of the internet jibber-jabber are these submissions from Matt Roon, whose excellent trip reports are hosted at TGR: TR: Gulmarg 2008 (1/3) TR: Gulmarg 2008 (2/3) TR: Gulmarg 2008 (3/3)
Evidently, the Indian Army in Kashmir is not tolerating any protest activity associated with the state elections. If Americans had to run a gauntlet like this to post a ballot, I don't think democracy would last very long in America. Most of our bloated and apathetic citizens are not cut out for this type of exercise. Photo credit: Fayaz Kabli/Reuters
Today is the first anniversary of Benazir Bhutto's death by assassination in Rawalpindi. Condolences to all those mourning this fallen leader, taken far too early from life.
Pakistan began moving thousands of troops from the Afghan border toward India, officials and witnesses said Friday, raising tensions between the nuclear-armed neighbors and possibly undermining the U.S.-backed campaign against al-Qaida and the Taliban.
"The number of militant attacks fell 40 percent from 2007-2008, reaching 709 this year from roughly 1,100 last year, Kuldeep Khoda, a senior police official, said in a statement." (Emphasis added)
Travel Alert issued by the US Department of State, 19 December 2008:
The Department of State warns U.S. citizens that there is a high threat of terrorism throughout India, and advises U.S. citizens traveling to or already in India to maintain a high level of vigilance and to take appropriate steps to increase their security awareness, especially during the end-of-year holidays until India’s Republic Day, January 26. This Travel Alert expires on January 31, 2009 and replaces that issued on December 4 to provide updated information regarding the security situation.
The November 26 terrorist attack in Mumbai was carried out at venues frequented by Americans. That attack killed 170 persons (including six Americans and 16 other non-Indians) and injured 300. Future attacks may also target public places frequented by Westerners, including in large cities and tourist areas. India press reports that the State government in Goa has warned against beach parties and large gatherings on beaches and “open spaces” between December 23 and January 5.
The U.S. Mission is concerned that increased political tension between Pakistan and India may further complicate travel in areas near their already-sensitive border.
For the latest security information, Americans traveling abroad should regularly monitor the Department's Internet web site at http://travel.state.gov where the current Worldwide Caution, Travel Warnings, and Travel Alerts can be found. Up-to-date information on security can also be obtained by calling 1-888-407-4747 toll free in the United States and Canada or, for callers outside the United States and Canada, a regular toll line at 1-202-501-4444. These numbers are available from 8:00 a.m. to 8:00 p.m. Eastern Time, Monday through Friday (except U.S. federal holidays). The U.S. Embassy in New Delhi is located at Shanti Path, Chanakya Puri 110021; telephone +91-11-2419-8000; fax +91-11-2419-8407. The Embassy's Internet home page address is http://newdelhi.usembassy.gov. Image credit: Steve Breen
Simply amazing that this story went virtually unnoticed in the US media, especially that it is extremely topical, and is a highly significant movement of troops. Our sympathies go out to all the servicemen and women whose fate it is to be sent to this far-off land in which NO foreign power has ever successfully occupied.
From the article in the Park Record: Matt Roon and his twin brother Wesley "are avid skiers," said Parkite Chris Roon, the boys' father. His passion for skiing took Matt Roon last year to the Himalayas in Kashmir for six weeks of big-mountain skiing. "Both kids have been through [avalanche] training and they absolutely adore the backcountry," Chris Roon said.
The father praised ski patrollers at The Canyons for responding so quickly. Roon did not lose consciousness and his head was not submerged under snow. "His friends dug him out and carried him out within two hours," Chris Roon said. "He was not without equipment, without training or without friends who knew what they were doing."
Add your well-wishes for Matt Roon's full recovery at this thread at the TGR Forum > Ski/Snowboard > Mc_Roon needs vibes.
Matt (right, in better days) is the author of these excellent trip reports about his six weeks at Gulmarg in 2008, highly recommended reading:
Use the controls to tool around this custom map of Gulmarg, Kashmir, India. Highlighted features include hotels, restaurants, and other services, in addition to the Gulmarg Gondola and prominent bowls in the skiing domain. Approaches to Gulmarg from Srinagar and Delhi are also noted.
The embed code automatically launches the video (and audio) which I find annoying, otherwise the video would be presented here for your convenience. If you know how to re-write the code to kill the auto-start, please contact. Don't forget to come back after surfing the links!
Condolences to the lives lost, the families, & the friends left to mourn.
From The Daily Show - "John Oliver explains that when you're a bankrupt ideology pursuing a bankrupt strategy, the only move you've got is the dick one".
"The Kashmir Coordination Committee (KCC), spearheading the ongoing agitation against New Delhi’s rule, has called for strike to protest against the landing of Indian troops in Srinagar on this day in 1947. " (Emphasis added)
"Residents are demanding the release of Yasin Malik, arrested overnight after organising a rally urging people to boycott forthcoming elections...Multi-stage state elections are due to start on November 17 in Kashmir, where the past two months have witnessed some of the biggest anti-India protests since a separatist revolt against New Delhi's rule broke out in 1989."
An agreement between India and Pakistan toward a more permanent, overland trade route in Kashmir, the roadway linking Uri (IN) and Muzaffarbad (PAK), took a positive step in September, despite increasing tensions in the region, and between the two nations. The future of this link, vital to the small business traders of Jammu & Kashmir state, is largely out of their own hands. Cross-border trade is threatened by three looming issues: 1. India's introduction of troops to Afghanistan, on Pakistan's Western Front. 2. India's construction of dams on rivers that flow into Pakistan from its Eastern Front. 3. Continued, and/or increasing instability in Pakistan.
"An informative and entertaining slide show by Brian Newman, snow safety officer contracted by the Kashmiri government to westernize Gulmarg in 2007. Join Brian for amazing ski photos from his adventures in the region of Kashmir. If you are thinking about a trip to Gulmarg, get the guidance to make the most of your adventure. Show starts at 8:00 PM." More information.
One likely topic of this presentation will be a discussion of avalanche danger and proper preparation. Find photographs of avalanche path and debris at Gulmarg here and there. More about Brian Newman, and avy danger at Gulmarg at these posts.
Highly recommended - This video from Rocky Mountain Sherpas:
"After being flagged off on April 7, 2005, the bus service ran for the second consecutive week for the first time on Thursday, having been a fortnightly affair till now." BACKSTORY: INDIA-PAKISTAN DISCUSS CROSS-LOC TRANSPORT & TRADE
"Four Indian soldiers and three Muslim militants were killed in gun battles across Kashmir on Monday, police said. They said suspected militants also beheaded a Muslim villager suspecting him to be an informer of Indian troops." (Emphasis added)
On shelves now, the August issue of Snowboard Canada, with a cover shot for Matt Belzile, on location at Gulmarg, Kashmir, India. An excellent, detailed article is available to readers of the magazine, but sadly, is not available online. To my knowledge this is the first feature on Gulmarg for a snowboard magazine in North America. Kudos!
SBC is a great magazine that too few American riders recognize; it is hard to find on sale in the US. If this trip had been covered by the SoCal press it might have been reduced to six, two-sentence paragraphs of xenophobic kerfuffle and a "Drunken' Go Nuts" episode. Instead, Gulmarg is fairly represented and readers get a deeper understanding of the trip to this extraordinary place. Highly recommended reading.
The SBC cover shot of Belzile is the work of John Scarth, in Gulmarg with Carlo Wein as part of the Alterna Films crew. There is a sequence shot from a different angle at this photoset from Griff & Smith, Provisioners and Local Source of Delirium. The SBC story on Gulmarg coincides with the release of their latest DVD; check out Knockout! - The Alterna Films Trailer, or press play below.
After a quiet week in the press reporting from Kashmir, protests Friday result in two deaths as police use tear gas and bullets to deter crowds in the border towns of Shopian and Baramulla.
Are you in Srinagar? Have you been affected by the curfew? Send us your experiences...Send your pictures to yourpics@bbc.co.uk or text them to +44 7725 100 100. If you have a large file you can upload here.
Before going to Kashmir last winter I tried to make some on-the-ground contacts, using the internet, so that I could call on an acquaintance in Srinagar. I'm glad I did. It was my first trip to India, one of the most challenging and sensational destinations on earth, and Srinagar was my first step into it beyond the airport.
A visit to Srinagar would completely peg out the sketch-o-meter of an ordinary tourist, and I could see in an instant why the insurance company declined my coverage in Kashmir. It is a fortified city.
Within a few days of arrival my internet friend appeared to visit me where I was holed up at the Grand Hotel. He is Owais Zargar, a photojournalist born, raised, and working in Srinagar. His work captures on the one hand the gravity of street-level skirmishes, and Kashmir's dazzling beauty on the other. Photo credit: Owais Zargar
Rarely do climbers enter mainstream consciousness until there is a fatal accident. The release and controversial success of John Krakauer's Into Thin Air, an account of one mean season at Mt. Everest, reinvigorated the climbing disaster genre - publishers now have another mountain tragedy to consider:
"K2 [has] claimed 11 lives, the worst single tragedy in climbing history on the mountain and one of the worst disasters in mountaineering history" - IHT, 5 August 2008.
Friends and clients of Ski Himalaya will remember that Gulmarg '07/08 alumnus Dave Watson is part of the K2 Tall Mountain Expedition that is currently scaling the mountain. Initial reports of the accident this weekend made no mention of Watson or his crew, and until today the expedition blog gave no indication of its status. Happily, this post states the team has moved its base camp (meaning the team is below the "death zone" and the "Bottleneck"), and that Dave is engaged in "putting up fixed rope", presumably as part of rescue support. Dave had originally had planned to attempt the first ski descent of K2 via the West Ridge after summiting. No word as yet if the team will continue for the peak, or if Dave will attempt his descent. Best wishes to everyone at K2, their family and friends.