Tuesday, December 30, 2008

GULMARG: THE INSPIRATION

I cannot recall how I first heard of a ski resort in India but it was described to me as an expanse larger than Verbier with vertical footage similar to Whistler, serviced by one six-person gondola. Many hours after that were spent Googling into the night to learn more about Gulmarg. "Ne Pofa, A short ski trip around the world" from M.dub is a beautiful video featuring the resort in the second half. It alone was enough to convince me to drop it all last year and go ASAP. Now I'm back for the second round.

Trip reports provide the grittier details about a destination, so browsing the travel forums has become mandatory before any adventure. The chestnuts in all of the internet jibber-jabber are these submissions from Matt Roon, whose excellent trip reports are hosted at TGR:
TR: Gulmarg 2008 (1/3)
TR: Gulmarg 2008 (2/3)
TR: Gulmarg 2008 (3/3)

Sunday, December 28, 2008

KASHMIR: STATE ELECTIONS

Evidently, the Indian Army in Kashmir is not tolerating any protest activity associated with the state elections. If Americans had to run a gauntlet like this to post a ballot, I don't think democracy would last very long in America. Most of our bloated and apathetic citizens are not cut out for this type of exercise.
Photo credit: Fayaz Kabli/Reuters



No clear winner from Indian Kashmir vote - Reuters, 28 December 2008.
Polls close in Indian Kashmir vote - AJ, 26 December 2008.
Clashes mark final Kashmir poll - BBC, 24 December 2008.
Srinagar notebook: Election blues - BBC, 23 December 2008.
Clashes mar Indian Kashmir voting - AJ, 13 December 2008.
Kashmiris at polls despite boycott call - Reuters, 7 December 2008.
Protesters shot in Indian-Kashmir - AJ, 22 November 2008.
Protests fade as Kashmir vote begins - BBC, 17 November 2008.
Voting begins in Indian Kashmir - AJ, 17 November 2008.
Indian Kashmir prepares for election - IHT, 14 November 2008.
Terrorism grows as Indian election nears - IHT, 24 September 2008.

Saturday, December 27, 2008

BENAZIR BHUTTO (1953-2007)

Today is the first anniversary of Benazir Bhutto's death by assassination in Rawalpindi. Condolences to all those mourning this fallen leader, taken far too early from life.

Pakistan mourners honour Bhutto - BBC, 27 December 2008.
Obituary: Benazir Bhutto - BBC, 27 December 2007.
Bhutto: Who Ordered Her Killing? - BBC, 28 December 2007.
Pakistan Blames Qaeda Link - IHT, 28 December 2007.
CIA Names Bhutto's Killers - BBC, 18 January 2008.
Questions & Answers - BBC, 8 February 2008.
Photo credit: BBC

Friday, December 26, 2008

INDO-PAK TENSIONS ON THE RISE

From the AP article:
Pakistan began moving thousands of troops from the Afghan border toward India, officials and witnesses said Friday, raising tensions between the nuclear-armed neighbors and possibly undermining the U.S.-backed campaign against al-Qaida and the Taliban.

Pakistan moves troops to Indian border - AP, 26 December 2008.
India PM meets forces, Pakistan moves troops - Reuters, 26 December 2008.
Troop changes after India tension - BBC, 26 December 2008.
Pakistan warns India against attack - IHT, 26 December 2008.
Pakistan cancels military leave - AJ, 26 December 2008.
India warns citizens: Unsafe to travel to Pakistan - Reuters, 26 December 2008.
Pakistan military on 'high alert' - AJ, 22 December 2008.
India wants action, not "war hysteria" - Reuters, 22 December 2008.
Image credit: Steve Breen

BRIGHT SPOT FOR KASHMIR

"The number of militant attacks fell 40 percent from 2007-2008, reaching 709 this year from roughly 1,100 last year, Kuldeep Khoda, a senior police official, said in a statement." (Emphasis added)

Violence in Kashmir lowest in 20 years - IHT, 26 December 2008.
Photo credit: Fayaz Kabli/Reuters

Thursday, December 25, 2008

HAPPY HOLIDAYS

Happy Holidays to one and all:

PEACE & LOVE
PEACE & LOVE
PEACE & LOVE

Wednesday, December 24, 2008

Tuesday, December 23, 2008

FBI LINKS PAKISTAN TO TERRORISM

Mumbai attack: US backs Indian proof of Pak hand - TOI, 23 December 2008.
VIDEO: US backs proof of Pak hand - TOI, 23 December 2008.

USDOS: INDIA TRAVEL ALERT

Travel Alert issued by the US Department of State, 19 December 2008:

The Department of State warns U.S. citizens that there is a high threat of terrorism throughout India, and advises U.S. citizens traveling to or already in India to maintain a high level of vigilance and to take appropriate steps to increase their security awareness, especially during the end-of-year holidays until India’s Republic Day, January 26. This Travel Alert expires on January 31, 2009 and replaces that issued on December 4 to provide updated information regarding the security situation.

The November 26 terrorist attack in Mumbai was carried out at venues frequented by Americans. That attack killed 170 persons (including six Americans and 16 other non-Indians) and injured 300. Future attacks may also target public places frequented by Westerners, including in large cities and tourist areas. India press reports that the State government in Goa has warned against beach parties and large gatherings on beaches and “open spaces” between December 23 and January 5.

The U.S. Mission is concerned that increased political tension between Pakistan and India may further complicate travel in areas near their already-sensitive border.

For the latest security information, Americans traveling abroad should regularly monitor the Department's Internet web site at http://travel.state.gov where the current Worldwide Caution, Travel Warnings, and Travel Alerts can be found. Up-to-date information on security can also be obtained by calling 1-888-407-4747 toll free in the United States and Canada or, for callers outside the United States and Canada, a regular toll line at 1-202-501-4444. These numbers are available from 8:00 a.m. to 8:00 p.m. Eastern Time, Monday through Friday (except U.S. federal holidays). The U.S. Embassy in New Delhi is located at Shanti Path, Chanakya Puri 110021; telephone +91-11-2419-8000; fax +91-11-2419-8407. The Embassy's Internet home page address is http://newdelhi.usembassy.gov.
Image credit: Steve Breen

Monday, December 22, 2008

WINTER SOLSTICE

Today is winter solstice, the shortest daylight/longest night of the year.

Sunday, December 21, 2008

US SURGE IN AFGHANISTAN

Simply amazing that this story went virtually unnoticed in the US media, especially that it is extremely topical, and is a highly significant movement of troops. Our sympathies go out to all the servicemen and women whose fate it is to be sent to this far-off land in which NO foreign power has ever successfully occupied.

US to bolster force in Afghanistan - AJ, 21 December 2008.
30,000 US troops to go to Afghanistan - TO, 11 December 2008.

Saturday, December 20, 2008

Friday, December 19, 2008

MAN SURVIVES AVALANCHE

Avalanches are Back: Man survives slide in the Basin; Woman dies at Snowbird - PR, 16 December 2008.

From the article in the Park Record:
Matt Roon and his twin brother Wesley "are avid skiers," said Parkite Chris Roon, the boys' father. His passion for skiing took Matt Roon last year to the Himalayas in Kashmir for six weeks of big-mountain skiing. "Both kids have been through [avalanche] training and they absolutely adore the backcountry," Chris Roon said.

The father praised ski patrollers at The Canyons for responding so quickly. Roon did not lose consciousness and his head was not submerged under snow. "His friends dug him out and carried him out within two hours," Chris Roon said. "He was not without equipment, without training or without friends who knew what they were doing."

Add your well-wishes for Matt Roon's full recovery at this thread at the TGR Forum > Ski/Snowboard > Mc_Roon needs vibes.

Matt (right, in better days) is the author of these excellent trip reports about his six weeks at Gulmarg in 2008, highly recommended reading:

TR: Gulmarg 2008 (1/3)
TR: Gulmarg 2008 (2/3)
TR: Gulmarg 2008 (3/3)

Thursday, December 18, 2008

GULMARG MAP: KASHMIR HOT SPOTS

A brief guide to conflict locations in the state of Jammu & Kashmir, with links to news sources.


View Larger Map

Wednesday, December 17, 2008

GULMARG MAP: GULMARG, SXR, & DEL

Use the controls to tool around this custom map of Gulmarg, Kashmir, India. Highlighted features include hotels, restaurants, and other services, in addition to the Gulmarg Gondola and prominent bowls in the skiing domain. Approaches to Gulmarg from Srinagar and Delhi are also noted.


View Larger Map

Tuesday, December 16, 2008

GULMARG: STEVE FISHER TWSB INTERVIEWS

The embed code automatically launches the video (and audio) which I find annoying, otherwise the video would be presented here for your convenience. If you know how to re-write the code to kill the auto-start, please contact. Don't forget to come back after surfing the links!

From Transworld Snowboarding:
Tempting Fate In The Himalayan Outback-Episode 1
Tempting Fate In The Himalayan Outback-Episode 2
Photo: Steve Fisher

Monday, December 15, 2008

GULMARG VIDEO - SCOTT SNOW EXPEDITION

The Scott Snow Expedition Kashmir -
Released on YouTube in June '08, I'm bumping this for stoke!

Sunday, December 14, 2008

Thursday, December 11, 2008

Tuesday, December 2, 2008

THE MUMBAI TRAGEDY: REPORTS

India: Pak shifting blame over Mumbai - Reuters, 22 December 2008.
Pakistan bans 'Mumbai-linked' group - BBC, 12 December 2008.
India announces security revamp - AJ, 11 December 2008.
India police 'name Mumbai gunmen' - BBC, 9 December 2008.
Pakistan's surprise raid on Lashkar - BBC, 8 December 2008.
India: Not equal to counterterrorism task - IHT, 4 December 2008.
Pressure builds on Pak to rein in militants - IHT, 4 December 2008.
US presses Pakistan over Mumbai - BBC, 3 December 2008.
Tension could harm border fight: UK - Reuters, 2 December 2008.
India demands Pakistan extraditions - AJ, 2 December 2008.
Tensions mount between India & Pakistan - IHT, 2 December 2008.
India makes protest to Pakistan - BBC, 1 December 2008.
Mumbai attacks hit tourist arrivals - Reuters, 1 December 2008.
ANALYSIS: Mumbai attacks open Pandora's box for U.S. - Reuters.
ANALYSIS: A credible counterterror strategy needed - Reuters.

Monday, December 1, 2008

THE MUMBAI TRAGEDY

Condolences to the lives lost, the families, & the friends left to mourn.

From The Daily Show - "John Oliver explains that when you're a bankrupt ideology pursuing a bankrupt strategy, the only move you've got is the dick one".

Thursday, November 13, 2008

FIRST SNOW COVERS GULMARG, BLOCKS TANGMARG ROAD

Kashmir Valley receives its first snowfall - Hindu, 13 November 2008.
Daylong snowfall in Gulmarg hill station - STN, 13 November 2008.

Three feet of snowfall reported at Gulmarg from this most recent storm.
UPDATE: First Snowfall in Srinagar Disrupts Life - NB, 14 November 2008.

Monday, October 27, 2008

KASHMIR PROTESTS "OCCUPATION"

Kashmir Shuts Down on Anniversary - KO, 27 October 2008.
India deploys to halt Kashmir protests - Reuters, 27 October 2008.

"The Kashmir Coordination Committee (KCC), spearheading the ongoing agitation against New Delhi’s rule, has called for strike to protest against the landing of Indian troops in Srinagar on this day in 1947. " (Emphasis added)

Thursday, October 23, 2008

BOYCOTT OF STATE ELECTIONS URGED

Kashmiris protest after leader held - AJ, 23 October 2008.

"Residents are demanding the release of Yasin Malik, arrested overnight after organising a rally urging people to boycott forthcoming elections...Multi-stage state elections are due to start on November 17 in Kashmir, where the past two months have witnessed some of the biggest anti-India protests since a separatist revolt against New Delhi's rule broke out in 1989."

Wednesday, October 22, 2008

INDIA LAUNCHES FIRST MOON MISSION

India launches first Moon mission - BBC, 22 October 2008.

Thursday, October 16, 2008

INDIA & PAKISTAN AGREE TO KASHMIR TRADE ROUTE

Cross LOC Traders Overcome Hurdles- KO, 16 October 2008.
Uri-M’abad Route to be Ready by Oct 15 - KO, 23 September 2008.
India, Pak agree to Kashmir route - Reuters, 22 September 2008.

An agreement between India and Pakistan toward a more permanent, overland trade route in Kashmir, the roadway linking Uri (IN) and Muzaffarbad (PAK), took a positive step in September, despite increasing tensions in the region, and between the two nations. The future of this link, vital to the small business traders of Jammu & Kashmir state, is largely out of their own hands. Cross-border trade is threatened by three looming issues:
1. India's introduction of troops to Afghanistan, on Pakistan's Western Front.
2. India's
construction of dams on rivers that flow into Pakistan from its Eastern Front.
3. Continued, and/or
increasing instability in Pakistan.

Tuesday, October 14, 2008

GULMARG, KASHMIR: POWDER DESTINATION

"An informative and entertaining slide show by Brian Newman, snow safety officer contracted by the Kashmiri government to westernize Gulmarg in 2007. Join Brian for amazing ski photos from his adventures in the region of Kashmir. If you are thinking about a trip to Gulmarg, get the guidance to make the most of your adventure. Show starts at 8:00 PM." More information.

One likely topic of this presentation will be a discussion of avalanche danger and proper preparation. Find photographs of avalanche path and debris at Gulmarg here and there. More about Brian Newman, and avy danger at Gulmarg at these posts.

Highly recommended - This video from Rocky Mountain Sherpas:

Saturday, October 11, 2008

Tuesday, October 7, 2008

OUR SECRET WAR IN PAKISTAN

Our secret war in Pakistan - MSNBC, 7 October 2008.
BACKSTORY: South Asia Awaits Another Secret War - TO, 19 July 2008.

Friday, October 3, 2008

Wednesday, October 1, 2008

Tuesday, September 30, 2008

KASHMIR CELEBRATES EID-UL-FITR

Kashmir celebrates Eid-ul-Fitr today - KO, 30 September 2008.

I had to look it up. Thank you Wikipedia: Eid-ul-Fitr.
Photo property of Kashmir Observer

Friday, September 26, 2008

PAKISTAN & US TROOPS EXCHANGE FIRE

Pakistan & US Troops Exchange Fire - TO, 25 September 2008.
Shots fired in US-Pakistan clash - BBC, 25 September 2008.
Pakistan, US differ on incident - Reuters, 25 September 2008.

Thursday, September 25, 2008

Sunday, September 21, 2008

Saturday, September 20, 2008

Thursday, September 18, 2008

KASHMIR: LOC BUS SERVICE RAMPS UP

Srinagar-Muzaffarbad Bus Runs Weekly - KO, 18 September 2008.

"After being flagged off on April 7, 2005, the bus service ran for the second consecutive week for the first time on Thursday, having been a fortnightly affair till now."
BACKSTORY: INDIA-PAKISTAN DISCUSS CROSS-LOC TRANSPORT & TRADE

Wednesday, September 17, 2008

Tuesday, September 16, 2008

SOLDIERS, MILITANTS KILLED IN KASHMIR

Soldiers among eight killed in Kashmir - Reuters, 15 September 2008.

"Four Indian soldiers and three Muslim militants were killed in gun battles across Kashmir on Monday, police said. They said suspected militants also beheaded a Muslim villager suspecting him to be an informer of Indian troops." (Emphasis added)

Saturday, September 13, 2008

GULMARG IN SNOWBOARD CANADA

On shelves now, the August issue of Snowboard Canada, with a cover shot for Matt Belzile, on location at Gulmarg, Kashmir, India. An excellent, detailed article is available to readers of the magazine, but sadly, is not available online. To my knowledge this is the first feature on Gulmarg for a snowboard magazine in North America. Kudos!

SBC is a great magazine that too few American riders recognize; it is hard to find on sale in the US. If this trip had been covered by the SoCal press it might have been reduced to six, two-sentence paragraphs of xenophobic kerfuffle and a "Drunken' Go Nuts" episode. Instead, Gulmarg is fairly represented and readers get a deeper understanding of the trip to this extraordinary place. Highly recommended reading. 

The SBC cover shot of Belzile is the work of John Scarth, in Gulmarg with Carlo Wein as part of the Alterna Films crew. There is a sequence shot from a different angle at this photoset from Griff & Smith, Provisioners and Local Source of Delirium. The SBC story on Gulmarg coincides with the release of their latest DVD; check out Knockout! - The Alterna Films Trailer, or press play below.



Alterna Films crew were our neighbors at the Hotel Alpine Ridge in Gulmarg, home of "360-degree monkeys" - Read about our dirtbag life in related posts at Gulmarg '07/08.

Friday, September 12, 2008

PROTESTS RESUME, DEATH TOLL RISES

After a quiet week in the press reporting from Kashmir, protests Friday result in two deaths as police use tear gas and bullets to deter crowds in the border towns of Shopian and Baramulla.

Two die in new Kashmir protests - BBC, 12 September 2008.
Two killed, 80 wounded in Kashmir - Reuters, 12 September 2008.

Thursday, September 11, 2008

STOP US BOMBING IN PAKISTAN

Bush OK'd Secret U.S. Strikes In Pakistan - CBS, 11 September 2008.

Stop, Mr. Bush, you're ruining it for everyone else. I predict this stupid stunt will be revealed as a political effort to boost Republican Party chances at the polls in November. Criminal homicide, plain and simple.
ANALYSIS: US attacks raise stakes in Pakistan - BBC.
ANALYSIS: Backlash: Turning to the Taleban in Pakistan - BBC.
UPDATE: Pakistan soldiers 'confront US' - BBC, 15 September 2008.
UPDATE: Pakistan army 'fires on US forces' - AJ, 15 September 2008.
UPDATE: 'US raid' kills four in Pakistan - BBC, 17 September 2008.
UPDATE: Pakistan 'not warned' of US raid - AJ, 18 September 2008.
UPDATE: U.S. did not warn of pending missile strike - IHT, 18 September 2008.
UPDATE: Pakistan in sovereignty warning - BBC, 20 September 2008.

Saturday, September 6, 2008

SNOWFALL IN KASHMIR VALLEY

Quake rocks valley - GK, 6 September 2008.
Light Snowfall in Kashmir Valley - KO, 7 September 2008.
Nip in air as rains, snow lash Kashmir - PNI, 9 September 2008.

Monday, September 1, 2008

Monday, August 25, 2008

KASHMIRIS KILLED DEFYING CURFEW

Kashmir Muslims defy India curfew - BBC, 25 August 2008.
5 killed, Demands for separation from India - IHT, 25 August 2008.
UPDATE: Clampdown turns Srinagar into ghost town - HT, 25 August 2008.
UPDATE: Uneasy calm prevails in Kashmir - HT, 26 August 2008.
VIDEO: Srinagar protests turn violent - 25 August 2008.



From the BBC:
Are you in Srinagar? Have you been affected by the curfew? Send us your experiences...Send your pictures to yourpics@bbc.co.uk or text them to +44 7725 100 100. If you have a large file you can upload here.

KASHMIR PHOTOS: OWAIS ZARGAR

Before going to Kashmir last winter I tried to make some on-the-ground contacts, using the internet, so that I could call on an acquaintance in Srinagar. I'm glad I did. It was my first trip to India, one of the most challenging and sensational destinations on earth, and Srinagar was my first step into it beyond the airport.

A visit to Srinagar would completely peg out the sketch-o-meter of an ordinary tourist, and I could see in an instant why the insurance company declined my coverage in Kashmir. It is a fortified city.

Within a few days of arrival my internet friend appeared to visit me where I was holed up at the Grand Hotel. He is Owais Zargar, a photojournalist born, raised, and working in Srinagar. His work captures on the one hand the gravity of street-level skirmishes, and Kashmir's dazzling beauty on the other.
Photo credit: Owais Zargar

Owais Zargar: KASHMIR BLOG
Owais Zargar: KASHMIR PHOTOSTREAM
NOTE: I first saw the term sketch-o-meter in a TGR Forum post about Kashmir.

Sunday, August 24, 2008

Saturday, August 23, 2008

Monday, August 18, 2008

Thursday, August 14, 2008

POLICE SHOOT MOURNERS, RIOT ENSUES

Muslims riot in Kashmir over deaths - Reuters, 14 August 2008.
UPDATE: Police shoot Kashmiri protester - BBC, 14 August 2008.
UPDATE: Toll rises as Muslims protest in Kashmir - Reuters, 15 August 2008.
UPDATE: Police Says Only 21 Died - KO, 14 August 2008.
VIDEO: Violence flares again in Kashmir - BBC, 13 August 2008.
VIDEO: Violence erupts in Kashmir - 14 August 2008.

Wednesday, August 13, 2008

Wednesday, August 6, 2008

DISASTER AT K2

Rarely do climbers enter mainstream consciousness until there is a fatal accident. The release and controversial success of John Krakauer's Into Thin Air, an account of one mean season at Mt. Everest, reinvigorated the climbing disaster genre - publishers now have another mountain tragedy to consider:

"K2 [has] claimed 11 lives, the worst single tragedy in climbing history on the mountain and one of the worst disasters in mountaineering history" - IHT, 5 August 2008.

Final survivor descends K2 - IHT, 5 August 2008.
K2 survivor: Companions all dead - BBC, 5 August 2008.

Friends and clients of Ski Himalaya will remember that Gulmarg '07/08 alumnus Dave Watson is part of the K2 Tall Mountain Expedition that is currently scaling the mountain. Initial reports of the accident this weekend made no mention of Watson or his crew, and until today the expedition blog gave no indication of its status. Happily, this post states the team has moved its base camp (meaning the team is below the "death zone" and the "Bottleneck"), and that Dave is engaged in "putting up fixed rope", presumably as part of rescue support. Dave had originally had planned to attempt the first ski descent of K2 via the West Ridge after summiting. No word as yet if the team will continue for the peak, or if Dave will attempt his descent. Best wishes to everyone at K2, their family and friends.
UPDATE: Chaos, death: World's most dangerous mountain - IHT, 6 August 2008.
UPDATE: State climbers OK on K2 - NT, 11 August 2008.
UPDATE: Was the K2 Accident Inevitable? - Outside, 11 August 2008.
UPDATE: Americans still hoping to launch summit push - K2C, 12 August 2008.
VIDEO: How A K2 Mountain Climb Turned Tragic - 6 July 2008.

Tuesday, August 5, 2008

ECONOMY WORSENS IN KASHMIR

Kashmir short of essentials after blockade - Reuters, 5 August 2008.
Blockade of Kashmir Valley To Continue - KO, 4 August 2008.
Carpet, Shawl Industry In Deep Slump - KO, 31 July 2008.
UPDATE: J&K industry may lose 15 billion rupees - Reuters, 13 August 2008.

It wasn't all that great to begin with, the economy it is.

Monday, August 4, 2008

THREE KILLED IN KASHMIR PROTESTS

Three killed in Kashmir protests - BBC, 4 August 2008.
UPDATE: 15 Year Old Killed in Srinagar Clashes - KO, 4 August 2008.
UPDATE: Protester dies in Kashmir clash - BBC, 5 August 2008.
UPDATE: Second day of protests in Kashmir - AJ, 5 August 2008.
UPDATE: Kashmir Valley Shuts Down Again - KO, 5 August 2008.
UPDATE: PM calls meeting to end Kashmir protests - Reuters, 6 August 2008.
UPDATE: Indian PM in urgent Kashmir talks - BBC, 6 August 2008.
UPDATE: Indian army shoots Hindu protesters - AJ, 6 August 2008.
UPDATE: Tension in Srinagar as Yasin's Condition Worsens - KO, 7 August 2008.
UPDATE: Indian Kashmir protests continue - AJ, 8 August 2008.
UPDATE: Kashmir separatist leaders: House arrest - Reuters, 8 August 2008.