Tuesday, September 30, 2008

KASHMIR CELEBRATES EID-UL-FITR

Kashmir celebrates Eid-ul-Fitr today - KO, 30 September 2008.

I had to look it up. Thank you Wikipedia: Eid-ul-Fitr.
Photo property of Kashmir Observer

Friday, September 26, 2008

PAKISTAN & US TROOPS EXCHANGE FIRE

Pakistan & US Troops Exchange Fire - TO, 25 September 2008.
Shots fired in US-Pakistan clash - BBC, 25 September 2008.
Pakistan, US differ on incident - Reuters, 25 September 2008.

Thursday, September 25, 2008

Sunday, September 21, 2008

Saturday, September 20, 2008

Thursday, September 18, 2008

KASHMIR: LOC BUS SERVICE RAMPS UP

Srinagar-Muzaffarbad Bus Runs Weekly - KO, 18 September 2008.

"After being flagged off on April 7, 2005, the bus service ran for the second consecutive week for the first time on Thursday, having been a fortnightly affair till now."
BACKSTORY: INDIA-PAKISTAN DISCUSS CROSS-LOC TRANSPORT & TRADE

Wednesday, September 17, 2008

Tuesday, September 16, 2008

SOLDIERS, MILITANTS KILLED IN KASHMIR

Soldiers among eight killed in Kashmir - Reuters, 15 September 2008.

"Four Indian soldiers and three Muslim militants were killed in gun battles across Kashmir on Monday, police said. They said suspected militants also beheaded a Muslim villager suspecting him to be an informer of Indian troops." (Emphasis added)

Saturday, September 13, 2008

GULMARG IN SNOWBOARD CANADA

On shelves now, the August issue of Snowboard Canada, with a cover shot for Matt Belzile, on location at Gulmarg, Kashmir, India. An excellent, detailed article is available to readers of the magazine, but sadly, is not available online. To my knowledge this is the first feature on Gulmarg for a snowboard magazine in North America. Kudos!

SBC is a great magazine that too few American riders recognize; it is hard to find on sale in the US. If this trip had been covered by the SoCal press it might have been reduced to six, two-sentence paragraphs of xenophobic kerfuffle and a "Drunken' Go Nuts" episode. Instead, Gulmarg is fairly represented and readers get a deeper understanding of the trip to this extraordinary place. Highly recommended reading. 

The SBC cover shot of Belzile is the work of John Scarth, in Gulmarg with Carlo Wein as part of the Alterna Films crew. There is a sequence shot from a different angle at this photoset from Griff & Smith, Provisioners and Local Source of Delirium. The SBC story on Gulmarg coincides with the release of their latest DVD; check out Knockout! - The Alterna Films Trailer, or press play below.



Alterna Films crew were our neighbors at the Hotel Alpine Ridge in Gulmarg, home of "360-degree monkeys" - Read about our dirtbag life in related posts at Gulmarg '07/08.

Friday, September 12, 2008

PROTESTS RESUME, DEATH TOLL RISES

After a quiet week in the press reporting from Kashmir, protests Friday result in two deaths as police use tear gas and bullets to deter crowds in the border towns of Shopian and Baramulla.

Two die in new Kashmir protests - BBC, 12 September 2008.
Two killed, 80 wounded in Kashmir - Reuters, 12 September 2008.

Thursday, September 11, 2008

STOP US BOMBING IN PAKISTAN

Bush OK'd Secret U.S. Strikes In Pakistan - CBS, 11 September 2008.

Stop, Mr. Bush, you're ruining it for everyone else. I predict this stupid stunt will be revealed as a political effort to boost Republican Party chances at the polls in November. Criminal homicide, plain and simple.
ANALYSIS: US attacks raise stakes in Pakistan - BBC.
ANALYSIS: Backlash: Turning to the Taleban in Pakistan - BBC.
UPDATE: Pakistan soldiers 'confront US' - BBC, 15 September 2008.
UPDATE: Pakistan army 'fires on US forces' - AJ, 15 September 2008.
UPDATE: 'US raid' kills four in Pakistan - BBC, 17 September 2008.
UPDATE: Pakistan 'not warned' of US raid - AJ, 18 September 2008.
UPDATE: U.S. did not warn of pending missile strike - IHT, 18 September 2008.
UPDATE: Pakistan in sovereignty warning - BBC, 20 September 2008.

Saturday, September 6, 2008

SNOWFALL IN KASHMIR VALLEY

Quake rocks valley - GK, 6 September 2008.
Light Snowfall in Kashmir Valley - KO, 7 September 2008.
Nip in air as rains, snow lash Kashmir - PNI, 9 September 2008.

Monday, September 1, 2008

Monday, August 25, 2008

KASHMIRIS KILLED DEFYING CURFEW

Kashmir Muslims defy India curfew - BBC, 25 August 2008.
5 killed, Demands for separation from India - IHT, 25 August 2008.
UPDATE: Clampdown turns Srinagar into ghost town - HT, 25 August 2008.
UPDATE: Uneasy calm prevails in Kashmir - HT, 26 August 2008.
VIDEO: Srinagar protests turn violent - 25 August 2008.



From the BBC:
Are you in Srinagar? Have you been affected by the curfew? Send us your experiences...Send your pictures to yourpics@bbc.co.uk or text them to +44 7725 100 100. If you have a large file you can upload here.

KASHMIR PHOTOS: OWAIS ZARGAR

Before going to Kashmir last winter I tried to make some on-the-ground contacts, using the internet, so that I could call on an acquaintance in Srinagar. I'm glad I did. It was my first trip to India, one of the most challenging and sensational destinations on earth, and Srinagar was my first step into it beyond the airport.

A visit to Srinagar would completely peg out the sketch-o-meter of an ordinary tourist, and I could see in an instant why the insurance company declined my coverage in Kashmir. It is a fortified city.

Within a few days of arrival my internet friend appeared to visit me where I was holed up at the Grand Hotel. He is Owais Zargar, a photojournalist born, raised, and working in Srinagar. His work captures on the one hand the gravity of street-level skirmishes, and Kashmir's dazzling beauty on the other.
Photo credit: Owais Zargar

Owais Zargar: KASHMIR BLOG
Owais Zargar: KASHMIR PHOTOSTREAM
NOTE: I first saw the term sketch-o-meter in a TGR Forum post about Kashmir.

Sunday, August 24, 2008

Saturday, August 23, 2008

Monday, August 18, 2008

Thursday, August 14, 2008

POLICE SHOOT MOURNERS, RIOT ENSUES

Muslims riot in Kashmir over deaths - Reuters, 14 August 2008.
UPDATE: Police shoot Kashmiri protester - BBC, 14 August 2008.
UPDATE: Toll rises as Muslims protest in Kashmir - Reuters, 15 August 2008.
UPDATE: Police Says Only 21 Died - KO, 14 August 2008.
VIDEO: Violence flares again in Kashmir - BBC, 13 August 2008.
VIDEO: Violence erupts in Kashmir - 14 August 2008.

Wednesday, August 13, 2008

Wednesday, August 6, 2008

DISASTER AT K2

Rarely do climbers enter mainstream consciousness until there is a fatal accident. The release and controversial success of John Krakauer's Into Thin Air, an account of one mean season at Mt. Everest, reinvigorated the climbing disaster genre - publishers now have another mountain tragedy to consider:

"K2 [has] claimed 11 lives, the worst single tragedy in climbing history on the mountain and one of the worst disasters in mountaineering history" - IHT, 5 August 2008.

Final survivor descends K2 - IHT, 5 August 2008.
K2 survivor: Companions all dead - BBC, 5 August 2008.

Friends and clients of Ski Himalaya will remember that Gulmarg '07/08 alumnus Dave Watson is part of the K2 Tall Mountain Expedition that is currently scaling the mountain. Initial reports of the accident this weekend made no mention of Watson or his crew, and until today the expedition blog gave no indication of its status. Happily, this post states the team has moved its base camp (meaning the team is below the "death zone" and the "Bottleneck"), and that Dave is engaged in "putting up fixed rope", presumably as part of rescue support. Dave had originally had planned to attempt the first ski descent of K2 via the West Ridge after summiting. No word as yet if the team will continue for the peak, or if Dave will attempt his descent. Best wishes to everyone at K2, their family and friends.
UPDATE: Chaos, death: World's most dangerous mountain - IHT, 6 August 2008.
UPDATE: State climbers OK on K2 - NT, 11 August 2008.
UPDATE: Was the K2 Accident Inevitable? - Outside, 11 August 2008.
UPDATE: Americans still hoping to launch summit push - K2C, 12 August 2008.
VIDEO: How A K2 Mountain Climb Turned Tragic - 6 July 2008.

Tuesday, August 5, 2008

ECONOMY WORSENS IN KASHMIR

Kashmir short of essentials after blockade - Reuters, 5 August 2008.
Blockade of Kashmir Valley To Continue - KO, 4 August 2008.
Carpet, Shawl Industry In Deep Slump - KO, 31 July 2008.
UPDATE: J&K industry may lose 15 billion rupees - Reuters, 13 August 2008.

It wasn't all that great to begin with, the economy it is.

Monday, August 4, 2008

THREE KILLED IN KASHMIR PROTESTS

Three killed in Kashmir protests - BBC, 4 August 2008.
UPDATE: 15 Year Old Killed in Srinagar Clashes - KO, 4 August 2008.
UPDATE: Protester dies in Kashmir clash - BBC, 5 August 2008.
UPDATE: Second day of protests in Kashmir - AJ, 5 August 2008.
UPDATE: Kashmir Valley Shuts Down Again - KO, 5 August 2008.
UPDATE: PM calls meeting to end Kashmir protests - Reuters, 6 August 2008.
UPDATE: Indian PM in urgent Kashmir talks - BBC, 6 August 2008.
UPDATE: Indian army shoots Hindu protesters - AJ, 6 August 2008.
UPDATE: Tension in Srinagar as Yasin's Condition Worsens - KO, 7 August 2008.
UPDATE: Indian Kashmir protests continue - AJ, 8 August 2008.
UPDATE: Kashmir separatist leaders: House arrest - Reuters, 8 August 2008.

Sunday, August 3, 2008

JAMMU-SRINAGAR HIGHWAY IMPERILED

Kashmir Blockade Comes Into Effect - KO, 29 July 2008.
Fanatic Mobs Rule Highway - KO, 31 July 2008.
Drivers Caught Amid Goons & Partisan Police - KO, 2 August 2008.
Army called to Jammu: Mobs attack property - KO, 2 August 2008.
NH handed over to Army - KO, 2 August 2008.
UPDATE: Highway Of Terror: Drivers Bring Tales Of Horror - KO, 6 August 2008.

There is now a super-abundance of anecdotal evidence on the unreliability of this land route to Kashmir. The national highway linking Srinagar and Jammu is the only road linking Kashmir to the rest of India, and for a variety of reasons - landslides, snow blizzards, political and religious interference - it is too often closed. Tourists ought to fly into Srinagar, rather than risk having their journey involuntarily becalmed. I met two individuals in Gulmarg last winter who were stranded on this highway for several days with nearly a dozen people and no food in a 4-5 passenger jeep. Thrilling. Read a post from my blog last winter: National Highway Shuts Down, Re-Opens

Friday, August 1, 2008

PAKISTAN LINKED TO INDIAN EMBASSY BLAST IN KABUL

The 7 July 2008 attack on the Indian Embassy in Kabul [Suicide Car Blast Kills 41 in Afghan Capital - NYT] went unreported in this blog for it was not evidently related to Gulmarg or Kashmir, nor was this author seeking to unearth a story link to this terrifying event.

Suspicion fell immediately upon Pakistan's spy agency, the Directorate of Inter-Services Intelligence (ISI), for participating in the attack on the Indian Embassy. If true, relations between India and Pakistan, already strained by resurgent violence in Kashmir, would become exponentially tense. This situation bodes ill for Kashmiris for their land has often been the place where these national tensions are violently expressed.

Violence in Kashmir is often attributed to the Pakistan's ISI, regardless of its cause, and this bias is well-known to Hindu nationalists. It is widely believed in Kashmir that some acts of violence attributed to Muslim separatists are actually triggered by Hindu nationalists that can rely on the cover of anti-Pakistan bias. It gets pretty confusing; reports that India's own intelligence services have fomented violence in Kashmir meant to be attributed to Muslim separatists only muddy the waters further.

Suffice to say I did not report the 7 July Kabul bombing in this blog as it appeared unrelated to Kashmir, but my opinion has changed. New reports from US intelligence services conclude that:
Pakistanis Aided Attack in Kabul - NYT, 1 August 2008.
UPDATE: Pakistan Denies Report It Planned Kabul Blast - TO, 2 August 2008.
UPDATE: Indian official: Sinking relations with Pakistan - IHT, 2 August 2008.
UPDATE: Indo-Pak rancour overshadows talks - AJ, 3 August 2008.
UPDATE: Pakistan: Indian bombing allegations unfounded - IHT, 3 August 2008.

Sunday, July 27, 2008

EXPLOSIONS IN GUJARAT KILL 45

Deadly blasts strike Indian city - BBC, 27 July 2008.
India hunts bombing suspects - AJ, 27 July 2008.
India on alert as bombers sought - BBC, 27 July 2008.
India: Terrorism is attack on 'way of life' - IHT, 27 July 2008.
UPDATE: Anti-terror squads in India carry out raids - IHT, 28 July 2008.
UPDATE: Death toll rises in India blasts - BBC, 28 July 2008.
UPDATE: 3 Kashmiris held in Mumbai for blasts - KO, 29 July 2008.
REPORT: The Larger Toll of India's Terror Blasts - TO, 29 July 2008.
VIDEO: India on alert - 27 July 2008.

Saturday, July 26, 2008

PAKISTAN & INDIA TRADE FIRE ON THE LOC

Pakistan, India Trade Fire on LoC - KO, 26 July 2008.

Read a detailed analysis of the border dispute between India, Pakistan, and the disparate Kashmir separatists in this excellent BBC report: The Future of Kashmir.
UPDATE: India, Pakistan in Kashmir clash - BBC, 28 July 2008.
UPDATE: Kashmir rivals to discuss firing - BBC, 29 July 2008.
UPDATE: India, Pakistan hold flag meeting as guns fall silent - KO, 29 July 2008.
UPDATE: Rivals trade blame over Kashmir - BBC, 29 July 2008.
UPDATE: India and Pakistan clash in Kashmir - AJ, 30 July 2008.
UPDATE: India accuses Pakistan on Kashmir - BBC, 30 July 2008.
UPDATE: 'Kashmir talks' held in Colombo - BBC, 31 July 2008.
UPDATE: Indo-Pak rancour overshadows talks - AJ, 3 August 2008.
UPDATE: LoC Residents Plunged Into Despair Again - KO, 4 August 2008.
UPDATE: Army says fired at from Pakistan border side - Reuters, 6 August 2008.

Friday, July 25, 2008

Sunday, July 20, 2008

GRENADE ATTACK ROCKS GULMARG

Blast Rocks Gulmarg - GK, 20 July 2008.
"A tourist and a civilian were killed and four others were injured in a grenade blast in the famous ski-resort Gulmarg in north Kashmir’s Varmul district... Unidentified persons hurled a grenade near the Gulmarg Sumo stand at 5 pm killing a tourist, Ashok Kumar son of Ram Shanker of UP on the spot and critically injuring four persons. A boy identified as Muhammad Yousuf son of Jalaluddin of Baba Reshi succumbed to his injuries on way to the hospital. Other injured were identified as Joginder Swami of UP, Bashir Ahmad son of Muhammad Sadiq of Sopur, Parvaiz Ahmad son of Muhammad Maqbool of Chandusa Tangmarg and Tahir Ahmad son of Muhammad Khalil of Sopur. Nobody had claimed responsibility for the attack till this report was filed."
UPDATE: GRENADE ATTACKERS ARRESTED IN KASHMIR - 10 September 2008.

Saturday, July 19, 2008

JET AIRWAYS WINS BEST IN CLASS; AWARDED FOR SERVICE

Jet Airways is doing very well these days - customers filling its seats and industry analysts singing its praises. The airline was recently awarded 'Best Business Class’ and ‘'Best Economy Class’ among airlines in India (CNBC-Awaaz Travel Awards 2008), and it was recognized as one of the 'Top 5 Airlines by Growth' in both 'Passenger Carriage' and 'Cargo Carriage' at Singapore's Changi International Airport (CAAS). The airline has frequent-flyer partnerships with American Airlines and Virgin Atlantic.

In other Indian aviation news:
The runway ends for travel agents - DNA, 24 June 2008.
Jet Airways has special India-Australia fares - AR, 16 July 2008.
US investment in Indian airline - BBC, 16 July 2008.
Air India reduces airfares to Gulf by 15 percent - BN, 18 July 2008.
Passengers see fares to India slashed - AB, 19 July 2008.

Thursday, July 17, 2008

51% OF INDIANS POLLED WOULD TOLERATE INDEPENDENT KASHMIR

51% Indians: Independent Kashmir no problem - GK, 17 July 2008.
Poll shows flexibility on Kashmir - WI, 17 July 2008.

Perhaps 100% of Kashmiris agree with them. The numbers of people polled make these conclusions insignificant, in my opinion, but indicate a measure of hope for Kashmiris, and a growing world awareness of their plight.

Wednesday, July 16, 2008

Monday, July 14, 2008

INDIA-PAKISTAN DISCUSS CROSS-LOC TRANSPORT & TRADE

Indo-Pak talks on CBMs - NT, 14 July 2008.
Indo-Pak talks on CBMs - BS, 19 July 2008.
UPDATE: Talks end without agreement - KUNA, 18 July 2008.
UPDATE: Delay in CBM brewing cynicism - KO, 26 July 2008.
UPDATE: LoC Truck Service By August - KO, 28 July 2008.
UPDATE: Srinagar-Muzaffarbad Bus Runs Weekly - KO, 18 September 2008.

Saturday, July 5, 2008

SIX SOLDIERS, TWELVE MILITANTS KILLED IN KASHMIR ENCOUNTER

6 soldiers, 12 militants killed - NT, 5 July 2008.
Link no longer active.

Wednesday, July 2, 2008

INDIA TRUCKERS STRIKE OVER FUEL

India truckers strike over fuel - BBC, 2 July 2008.
UPDATE: India truckers strike called off - BBC, 4 July 2008.

Monday, June 30, 2008

TOURISTS FLEE INDIAN KASHMIR

Tourists flee as protests swell - TT, 30 June 2008.
Shrine protest: Tourists flee Srinagar - TI, 27 June 2008.
Hopes for best-ever season end - Tribune, 27 June 2008.
UPDATE: Tourists keep off troubled Kashmir - NT, 12 July 2008.
UPDATE: Amarnath controversy hits tourism - Merinews, 12 July 2008.
VIDEO: Unrest over Kashmir shrine plans - 3 July 2008.

For a first-hand account of one tourist's experience in Kashmir during the Amarnath protests read Horrible Srinagar - Coconut Travels.

Equally compelling is Kashmir, and our House (Boat) Arrest - Stories From the Open Road.

Tuesday, June 24, 2008

TOURISTS FLOCK BACK TO KASHMIR

Tourists flock back to Kashmir - BBC, 24 June 2008.

KASHMIR VIOLENCE OVER SHRINE LAND

Kashmir violence over shrine land - BBC, 24 June 2008.
Srinagar shuts down in protest - KO, 24 June 2008.
Read a primer on this conflict, A Stitch in Time - HT, 30 June 2008.
UPDATE: Kashmir shrine violence spreads - BBC, 25 June 2008.
UPDATE: Valley up in arms - KO, 25 June 2008.
UPDATE: Protests show no signs of abating - KO, 26 June 2008.
UPDATE: Shutdown cripples life for seventh day - KO, 29 June 2008.
VIDEO: Five killed in Kashmir gunbattle - 24 June 2008.

Sunday, June 22, 2008

Friday, June 20, 2008

Wednesday, June 11, 2008

Tuesday, June 10, 2008

INSURANCE COVERAGE FOR FOREIGN TOURISTS

Omar suggests insurance for foreign tourists - ET, 8 June 2008.

Great idea. Currently most insurance policies are null and void for travel to Kashmir. Check with your insurance provider.